Even mentioning the bridge for years after it fell to the bottom of the Neretva River could invoke tears as it symbolized both the city and the country as a whole. Now, more than a decade later, the beautiful stone structure that had spanned the Neretva River for over four centuries once again arches across its raging waters. The bridge is Mostar's core and its reconstruction means that life is slowly but surely returning to normal in what is most certainly the most beautiful city in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

MEDJUGORJE PILGRIMAGE

The story of Medugorje is well known to most Catholics. In 1981 six teenagers were playing together in the hills between the villages of Medugorje and Bijakovici.

It was on this barren hillside that Mother Mary appeared and spoke to them. When the children told their parents the first reaction was skepticism. The apparitions, however, did not cease. She appeared again and again and soon made believers out of even the most vocal of critics. Since then it is estimated that over 15 million people have visited this tiny place. This sleepy Herzegovina village has become the second largest Catholic pilgrimage site in the world.
There has been much controversy over the legitimacy of the visions, so much so that the Pope has not recognized it as an official pilgrimage site. Nonetheless, millions of faithful Catholics from all over the world visit this sacred spot, and the many amazing accounts suggest that miracles are a regular occurrence here - the Virgin Mary is said to still appear every day to one of the teenagers.

NEUM AT THE SEA

The Adriatic Sea from Split to Dubrovnik is gorgeous, very clean, and includes 22km of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The closed bay at Neum is protected from the strong open sea winds by the Peljesac Peninsula, and wonderfully calm.

During Yugoslav times it was an isolated retreat for the communist elite. Tourism has returned to this place and scuba-diving, parasailing, boating and jet skiing can all readily be arranged in any of the major hotels. It all costs a little less than what it costs in Croatia. During the season, it is wise to book in advance.

POCITELJ - UNESCO HERITAGE

A great D-tour on your way to the coast or to Hutovo blato, this quaint oriental-style town is located about half an hour's drive from Mostar, less than 30km south on the M-17 road towards the Adriatic.

This unique settlement, listed as a UNESCO heritage site and recent reconstruction has returned the town to its original form. Besides its stunning oriental architecture and Ottoman feel, Pocitelj hosts the longest operating art colony in southeast Europe. Artists from around the world gather here to paint, among other things but importantly, the shiny red pomegranates and figs that grow in abundance on the hills of Pocitelj.
The Hadzi-Alija Mosque has been reconstructed as well as the Sisman-Ibrahimpasina medresa and the Gavran Kapetanovic house, all of which are open to visitors. The most striking object in Pocitelj is the Sahat-kula, a silo-shaped fort that towers from the top of the hill above the town. It housed watchmen and military to guard against possible invasion from the Neretva Valley.

BLAGAJ - BUNA

This region characterizes the diversity of its above-ground and underground waters. The source of the Buna is one of the largest and most beautiful in Europe.

It flows out of a 200m cliff wall and single-handedly creates the Buna River. Unsurprisingly, the Ottoman sultan was impressed, and ordered a tekija to be built right next to it. This 16th century house/monastery was built for the Dervish cults and is still one of the most mystical places in all of Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is open to visitors all year round and serves cold drinks, tea and Turkish coffee in a beautiful garden overlooking the source of the River.
The region is also known for the diversity of its flora and a number of endemic species. At lower altitudes there are many evergreen plant and deciduous thicket species, while at higher altitudes in the hills there is sparse forest. Fertile cultivable land is suitable for the agriculture typical of the Mediterranean climate.

JABLANICA LAKE

Nestled on a terraced plateau below the intimidating peaks of Prenj and Cvrsnica Mountains, Jablanica teeters between the Mediterranean and continental climates.

The Neretva River carves its way through the centre, dividing the massive mountain ranges. It was at Jablanica that Tito and the partisans, burdened with 4,000 wounded others, won the unlikely Battle of the Neretva during World War II. The blown-up bridge that the partisans used to trick the Nazis still hangs from the high cliffs as a reminder of one of the partisans' greatest victories. In addition, there is a war memorial on the peak of Mount Prenj (2,155 meters), dedicated to Tito and the brave men and women who climbed and crossed this cruel - and beautiful – mountain in the most trying of times. The War Museum next to the bridge exhibits pictures and tells the story of this famous war episode. An old German bunker on the east side of the river has now been converted into a restaurant and café.

Apart from this famous World War II battle, Jablanica is known for its 'jagnjetinja', lamb meat. The old tradition of roasting sheep over an open fire brought fame to a series of restaurants on the main road (M17) south of the town. Most restaurants are filled day and night and most buses heading south to Mostar or north to Sarajevo stop for a taste of this mouthwatering delicacy. They do, of course, sell other types of food but the craze is definitely for lamb by the kilo.
JABLANICA LAKE
North of Jablanica, behind the Lendava Tunnel, the Jablanicko Lake system begins. This area has developed a tourism niche on the lake. with several good restaurants on its shore. The entire length of the lake is lined with pensions, hotels, private rooms and campgrounds. The lake has some of the best fishing in the country as proved by the locals standing on the side of the road selling their 'catches of the day' - large carp, trout, bass and other fish. Jablanicko Lake is safe for swimming but we recommend it only to good swimmers as there is no lifeguards or any other safety mechanisms in case of an emergency. The campgrounds are very simple. There is access for campervans and places to pitch a tent but no hook-ups for electricity or water. The place is usually crowded with local people.

VJETRENICA CAVE

In the southwestern no-man’s land of Herzegovina is the stunning valley of Popovo Polje. The ancient karst field is a minute piece of what is the one of the world’s largest karst field that stretches all the way into Croatia and Slovenia.

Near the small town of Ravno and the medieval orthodox monastery of Zavala is the largest cave system discovered in Bosnia and Herzegovina – Vjetrenica Caves. This extensive cave system has in total over 6 kilometres of chanels. The stunning Main chanel stretches on 2,50 kilometers. Amongst the many archeological discoveries are the ancient cave bears and leopards, cave drawings that are estimated to be over 10,000 years old . The Cave is also home to many small lakes and endemic types of shellfish only found in deep underground aquifer systems.
Vjetrenica is now on the list for Unesco protected areas in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The cave has recently been re-opened after extensive research and improvements to the infrastructure. Opening hours vary so it is advisable that travelers check with local travel agencies before visiting the site. Well marked road signs are visible throughout the main Popovo Polje road from Stolac to Trebinje and from the main coastal road in Croatia towards Ravno.

HUTVO BLATO - BIRD RESERVE

Hutovo blato Bird Reserve is marshland, created by the underground aquifer system of the Krupa River. It is fed from the limestone massif of Ostrvo that divides the Deransko and Svitavsko lakes.

The International Council for Bird Protection placed this reserve on the list of important bird habitats, and did so for good reasons: this reserve is the largest of its kind in this part of Europe, in terms of both size and diversity. It is home to over 240 types of migratory birds and dozens that make their permanent home in these sub-Mediterranean wetlands surrounding Deransko Lake. In the migration season, tens of thousands of birds fill this lake and its surroundings.
The best way to see these birds is to rent a boat, which can be done from the reserve's only hotel. Per hour, these 'barcos' cost 40KM (for up to six persons), 60KM (for up to ten persons) or 100KM (for ten to 15 persons). They come with a professional biologist guide, who speaks English and takes an additional 30KM.
The reserve provides a unique oasis amongst the harsh arid karst of western Herzegovina. Teeming with freshwater fish, wild duck, geese, coots, hawks, herons, pheasants, wild boar and wild horses, it accommodates birdwatchers, nature lovers and families with children alike. For the latter, there is a very short but cute educational walk that starts from the hotel.
Hutovo blato is located only 5km from the city of Capljina and is marked with clear signs on the M-17. There is no entrance fee to the park and it is open all year round. It also has a picnic area, restaurant/café and a newly renovated hotel.